Self-taught, Helmut Lang began fashion in Vienna at the age of 23 in 1986. He will be the first to have men and women together on the catwalks and to create androgynous-looking clothes that will influence many designers. He is a figurehead of minimalism and non-logo emanating from the Antifashion movement of the early 1990s. He remains a “cult” designer of this era. During his career, he collaborated with the artists Jenny Holzer or Louise Bourgeois.
The Helmut Lang brand still exists today, but has continued without Lang's involvement since 2005.
Since then, the brand's director, Andrew Rosen, relaunched it in 2016 and hired Isabella Burley, from British magazine Dazed, to do so. She launched capsule collections with several designers, such as the remarkable one by Shayne Oliver, artistic director for the New York brand Hood By Air.